¿Donde estan los condoritos?

Morgan and I sat in the shade, camouflaged by the leaves of a cipres tree. Most of the time we sat, staring out at the rocky cliffs in front of us or way up in the sky, hoping to see the 3m long wingspan of the great condor. But alas, we saw none. We sat, we stretched, read the Tao Te Ching book by William Martin, and fed some nearby ants the flies we killed. We eventually got so bored and killed so many flies that we focused our attention on how the ants were controlling the wrestling strength of the flies legs. It was amazing! There were ants that took pieces of dirt outfrom under the fly, ants that brought sticks over to lay on top of the fly, and ants that bit and tortured the fly. We didnt find the condors but we did find the wonderous life of an ant. Our goal was to try and find the nest of a pair of condors in an area within Nahuel Huapi. With the help of Sergio we buskwacked our way through thick bamboo and spiky plants that pierce the skin and clothing easily. On top of that, it rained the first few days. By GPS we made our way on top of a hill that looked into a 1km long valley with rocky cliffs on the opposite end. We learned a good lesson, the glorious life of a biologist is few and far between reality. Orlando thinks the pichon might have died. It will be furthur investigated. Off again soon to another nest location in Nahuel Huapi. In the meantime, anyone have any questions they would like to know about condors?

UPDATE:

I forgot to mention a few interesting experiences while we were out there. The second day it rained pretty good and our tent was dripping water from the top, down into the middle on our stuff. As it continued to rain we had to figure a way to stop the water coming in. We used two of our foam pads, brought so we could sit on the ground comfortably. There was a gap letting rain through between these foam pads so we cut a plastic bottle in half and set it there. We had a plethora of plastic bottles because the area we were in had no water resources so we had to rely on what water we brought. In the end our set up worked perfectly. The next morning the birds welcomed us to a new sunny and clear day. Birds such as the curious Chucao came as close to landing on top of our tent briefly with a loud chhuuuuuuuuuuucao. Skipping ahead now. At the end of our trip, Orlando, Morgan and I were hiking out and came upon three horses silently resting under the bright moonlight. We talked to them for a bit and one by one more horses arrived. It was getting dark so we left with a trail of horses behind us. As we walked on the sendero de los caballos, trail of the horses, under the guidance of la luna brillante, the bright moon, I had one horse behind me bump into me with its head. Morgan was following another horse when it decided to take a crapp. When we got the end of the trail only two horses remained and as we left, one horse gave us one last farewell.

¡Oh, Condoritos!

Buenos Dias, Allyce and I were discussing how strange how we are able to sleep better in the woods. The white noise of the rushing river flowing by our tent. The sweet cool breeze blowing in through the mesh lining, wafting in rhythms, filling our head with memorable dreams. Now we are in Bariloche, with a constant background of noises, the stale air inside the room made for a disturbing night. Morgan and I left eight days ago with Orlando and assistant Pablo.We took a trail halfway up to a well known Refugio called Jakob. Our condor location was off trail, once off trail we made our way up a river, scrambling over boulders and cursing while stromping over the sharp spikes of Michay and the whipping sticks of Colihue (bamboo). Once we got to the condor nest area we pitched our tent next to the river. For five and a half days we scrambled up steep, slippery rocks to our observation area. The condors nest is called a nido in spanish, although it`s not really a nest, just an indent in soil with a rock overhang for shelter. We had to get high enough to view the chick or pichòn. From about 8 am to 7 pm we looked through our spotting scopes at the lives of the condors. The pichòn is a cute, large, fluffy, and awkward bird covered in a pile of down feathers. Most of the time Pichòn slept, huddled in a corner but sometimes the parents came to feed. Unfortunately I don`t have enough time to write about all that we observed. It was amazing, special, unique, and I treasured every moment. Even mid day when the sun was scorching our brains and we went crazy looking for shade. Or when Morgans Nalgene bottle went tumbling down the steep slope and shattered into pieces. Morgan brought along two flutes so while he sang sweet melodies, I awkwardly tried to make a few notes. Heading out again in a couple of days. Going to enjoy the time off I have.

Nuevas aventuras

Morgan and I have successful connected with Sergio A. Lambertucci,a leading researcher of the Andean Condor. Today we head off into Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi, cerca de Bariloche to camp six days and study the condors. We will be apart of a study that derives from a previous study done by Segio and Orlando. If you`re interested, this is the research paper we are basing our own study off of.
http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1557-9263.2008.00156.x/abstract
Once we get back we will camp another six days, twice in different areas within the park. Will keep you posted. ¡Nos vemos!

A list of what to bring while traveling

First off, everyone has different needs, the following list is what I have found to work well for traveling light. My grandmother Pamela is visiting me in March so I thought it would be helpful to put together a list plus there are things I wish I would have brought and what to bring while traveling in the future. List also changes on the time of year visiting.

1. Sturdy backpack, depends on your preference, it´s very helpful to have a sleeping bag zipper compartment at the bottom for quick access. Plan on carrying only a large backpack and a small backpack.

2. I wish I would have brought a clothes line that has clips on it. Super easy to use and light. I usually use some rope or like right now my clothes are hanging all over a tree. The thing is, without the clips, random pieces of clothing get blown away.

3. Wish I would have brought a collapsable plastic water container: My nalgene works just fine but doesnt hold enough water. For example, we are staying at a campground that is far from a water source. My professor has a nice container thats not too large and not too small, approximately 1.5 Liters or 50 oz. When he´s not using it, just squishes it down so its compact and light whereas two nalgene bottles do not have this option.

4. Boots, flip flops for showering in, and sneakers.

5. Watch with an alrm clock in it.

6. One warm jacket, once waterproof jacket

7. Sunglasses, warm beanie, ball cap...

8. Grams, I have a few things you can borrow like a beanie cap, gloves, camera, binoculars....

9. Sealable Tupperware container for holding a sandwich and another snack.

10. Only enough clothes to fit in a compressable stuff sack. Por ejemplo: two pairs of pants, one being hiking pants, one pair of shorts, three pairs of shirts, long sleeved shirt, and a light jacket for protection from the sun,two pairs of sneaker socks, and two pairs of warm boot socks. I doubt you will need to bring your boots. Just bring a good pair of sneakers.

11. Extra lightweight bag to bring back goodies in! You will leave with more than you came with for sure.

List of ``must haves`` in Argentina

Here is a list of what everyones buying. Plus a funny update. Last night Amy fell out of her top bunk bed last night. Luckily she´s as agile as a cat and landed on her feet!

First off, if you´re in Bariloche you have to buy:
1. CHOCOLATE!
Entonces...
2. Cuchillos, knives
3. Boleadoras
4. Sam bought a beaver trap
5. I bought a baca belt, cow belt with hair on it!
6. Mate´s
7. Bombillas for the mate´s
8. All types of clothing
9. Pan de Indio gal, not a pan de indio girl but a type of fungus that grows on a tree and forms strange growths.

As our adventures grow, so does this list

Estoy cansada

I´ve been wanting to write since my break in El Bolson but I´ve so busy ever since I got back to the real world. I´m staring at this computer and it´s swaying haha! Too much cafe and mate. I had spanish class this morning and shared my new ceramica mate gourd with everyone. It´s a pajaro, bird. After class I wrote my two spanish presentations, one on one of the founding fathers of Argentina, Perito Moreno and the other presentation on an interview of our choice. I interviewed several people in the artensanal feria in Bariloche, people like Daniel who made the ceramica mate cup I bought, a Cecilia who makes soap, and a Mapuche woman (a true native of Argentina) who makes beautiful silver jewelry.

Then I had a meeting with film director and producer of The Path of the Condor. Here´s the website: http://www.thepathofthecondor.com/
My classmates Morgan, Ben, and I asked him questions about possible projects to join about the condors. We have some more people to contact but it looks likely that my February project will be studying the Condor bird. I´m super excited because not a lot of study has been done on these magnificent birds. Every new information gained about them has great opportunities in areas of re-establishing populations here and in california with the californian condor, new inventions in paragliding, and much much more.

Time to go, tonight I´m eating at the restaurant Sesame with my roommates. Some other things I´ve been working on is a species presentation on the Black-Browed Albatross and another presentation on a research paper about the Condors. Sunday our group leaves to take rental cars north and south to different parks.

Here´s an interesting article my professor just sent me.
http://www.guardian.co.uk/world/2011/jan/13/argentinian-founding-father-genocide-row

¡Nos Vemos!

Verano aqui

My days in El Bolson have been very tranquilo. A couple of days ago Alicia and I bought an Andes porter cervesa and some mani (peanuts) and sat in the shade in the middle of the artesanal feria. We people watched and listened to a few people playing music, one guy strumming his guitar and singing outloud while another man became one with his jembe, a girl slowly rocked back and forth on her heels with a tambarine in hand. Nearby tourists eyed pretty pieces of handmade jewelry, wood carvings, and trenzas for the hair. An elderly man slowly walked through the crowd and sat by us. He was wearing complete gaucho clothing from head to toe. A baret hat, light blue scarf around the neck, beautiful wool vest, bombacha pants, and gaucho boots. We talked to him for a while and found out that he was looking for a woman. He asked how old we were and we had him guess. He thought I was in my 30´s and Alicia was in her 40´s! We had a good laugh because no one has ever thought I was that age and Alicia is in her 30´s. He was quite interested in taking us home but Alicia told him she has an esposo, husband, which she does. I told him I had a very serious relationship back home. He still insisted we come back to his estancia and ride some horses and maybe a bit more. It was quite entertaining, eventually he headed off in search of other canidates and we wished him much luck in his endeavors.

I have so many stories like this but not enough to time to write them all out. Well, I have plenty of time but using the internet at the locatorios here are expensive.

We´ve been pretty much in El Bolson for our entire vacation. We went on a six day backpacking trip in the mountains close to El Bolson. We backpacked a total of 80 kilometers and stayed at refugios which are cabins in the woods. Some are only seasonal while others are ran by families year around. We named our backpacking trip the Stair Master because the entire trip was mainly up hill. We had a great time. When we got back we ate tons of pizza and beer then headed north of Bariloche in search of hot springs. The tourist office said we had to go to Angostura for more information so we went there. Takes about five hours by bus.Long story short, we couldnt make it to the hot springs for christmas so we camped in an area called siete lagos, seven lakes then headed back to El Bolson. We were ready to just chill out and not move around so much.

I spend my christmas eve with four argentinos. Made friends with to guys riding their bikes all the way from their home Cordoba to Tierra Del Fuego. They stopped in El Bolson for a break. The other two guys were on vacation from a small town near Uruguay. Celebrating christmas is like new year´s here. They counted down the minutes until midnight and got a bunch of cider and dulces out for the event. Once midnight stuck a bunch of fireworks went off in the distance and they got many calls on their cellphones. I eventually went to bed while they went out partying until 6am.

Alicia and I have been camping at Refugio Patagonico, a nice campground next to a stream and free hot showers. We often wake up to screeching birds of all sorts and dogs barking. My allergies have been extremely bad here. I had the worst day yesterday while we hung out at Lago Pueblo. My eyes felt like they had sand in them and got swollen. Swimming in the freezing water helped a lot. Today I feel much better. It´s hot out, clear skies, and all the tourists are arriving. I´m researching for my independent study in February. Would like to go to Tierra Del Fuego to explore the mountains and galciers there. Looks like we will be in Bariloche for año nuevo. Hope everyone had a great christmas and feliz año nuevo!!!!

Backpacking and Puerto Montt, Chile

I was gone for six days backpacking in Nauhi Huapi National Park outside of Bariloche. We started in Villa Catedral, a ski resort and made our way up the valley to Refugio Fray which lies on a lake and cirque of mountains. From that point on we were hiking in snow over a pass to another valley. Did some plant surveys and plenty of plant identification. Near the end of our trip we had to go over another pass which was absolutely insane. It had started raining the previous day so people were getting drenched and had to wear plastic bags in their shoes. We then had to kick step our way up to the top of the mountain while pushing against 50mph winds, sometimes the huge gusts were greater. Some of us had bamboo sticks for support and somehow we all made it safely to the top! We then had to scramble down scree and once in the next valley make our way through huge patches of mud and ford a river to get to the next refugio. We were greeted with warm tea and a dry place to hang out. Later that night Alicia and I treated ourselves to some wine while writing in our daily field journals. After this we headed out the valley back to Bariloche. Hopped on a bus to Puerto Montt, Chile and now here I am in a hostel wearing my new alpaca wool jacket wishing I could stay longer. We just arrived yesterday 10 December and leaving tomorrow for Bariloche for two week ¨winter¨ break. Alicia and I plan on heading north to some hot springs then heading south to do some backpacking. Chile is definetely different than Argentina. The food has more spice and the money is so different! It´s hard trying to think in terms of 10,000 pesos which looks like 10.000. The US dollar is roughly equal to 500 pesos here whereas in Argentina $1 US is approx. 4 pesos. whhheeeew. At least they always have enough cambio (change) unlike argentina where they have a shortage and always ask if you have cambio. There are similarities like the homeless dogs roaming the streets, although here they spend their days laying in the middle of the street or hacking up oyster juice of some sort. Puerto Montt is close to the Pacific Ocean so their markets are full of a variety of seafood and strange animal parts. For a while I thought dry animal intestines looked like some type of seaweed. Last night we ate in a bar and an old gentleman shook hands with every girl that came through. We were often called the gringos. Had plenty of beer and meat so I skipped breakfast today, I think this is why breakfast isn´t so popular. Random musicians would come inside and entertain for money. One guy even strummed his guitar, went to each of us and made fun of us. I got it easy, being the one he said was the most responsive to him. Whenever he came by I would look at him and smile, which he apparently enjoyed. Another wonderful week full of adventures.

Bariloche

I had written a blog a couple of days ago on the hostel computer but then the mouse quit working and then the keyboard failed so I lost it all. Not much time now to write because I`m getting ready for a five day backpacking trip in Nahue Huapi. This week we went rafting on the Rio Manso starting in Chile and ending in Argentina. It was a lot of fun! We got to jump in the water a couple times and flip the raft over (on purpose), the water was muy frio but very refreshing. We have been learning a lot about plants, yesterday we went on a plant walk with Manuel, who has a doctorate in biology and is doing research in areas outside of Bariloche. Today we went on a plant walk with Sarah who is an ethnobotanist and medicinal doctor. Both of them only spoke spanish so some of the information was translated but I could understand bits and pieces. Have to get going now to prepare tons of food for the trip. ¡Chau Chau!